The Dolce Vita is not as sweet as it’s portrayed in movies and television, according to residents of Southern Italy when asked about the impact of the mafia in their region. The presence of the mafia, rather than legal institutions and public services, has been blamed for streets in need of renovation, limited healthcare, and high unemployment. Additionally, the negative image afflicting regions such as Calabria, Sicily, as well as Apulia and Campania, is exacerbated by the mafia. Portrayals of fictional mafioso like those in the film The Godfather perpetuate stereotypes and overshadow the true cultural and ecological richness of these regions.
Fiction vs. Reality
The Godfather family name and home is Corleone, a real picturesque Northern Sicilian village. The name Corleone, now famous throughout the world, means “lion heart.” However, the village and its history have nothing to do with what’s depicted in the bestselling book and movie. Mario Puzo, author of The Godfather, tried to get in contact with Corleone families while naming his characters, but without success. It was a mere coincidence that, years later, some of the most influential mafia families of Cosa Nostra, the Sicilian mafia, emerged from Corleone.
A stroll through Corleone today reveals a café humorously named Il Padrino, a nod that locals see as a playful parody. They are also amused by tourists looking to take photos of mafiosi casually wandering around with hats, sunglasses, and cigars. The people who live here are keen to educate visitors about how their town has no connection to the fictional events in The Godfather. Moreover, they emphasize that the true mafia doesn't adhere to any moral code, and its core members aren't inherently good people, despite how the movie depicts things.
I joined Sylvia, the director of feast, a brand that specializes in culinary tours across the Mediterranean, to explore Palermo and the Ionian Coast in Calabria. These are pivotal areas for two of Italy's four mafia groups. We met up with organizations that have been fighting the mafia for two decades. Through them, we learned about how the mafia operates today, including vote control, infiltrating institutions and corporations, and seeking “social depression.” Nowadays, mafia activities have become more subtle, making them more difficult to understand and combat.
Mafia groups operate differently in different regions. In Palermo, recognized as the mafia capital of Cosa Nostra, approximately 60% of shopkeepers still pay pizzo (protection money) to local mafia groups and disadvantaged neighborhoods are exploited to recruit the next generation of mafia operatives. In contrast, 'Ndrangheta, the Calabrian mafia, seeks broader influence. They discreetly infiltrate politics and seek to control businesses across the globe. 'Ndrangheta buy votes for mafia-affiliated parties and place their members in key roles and powerful positions. They siphon funds from public construction projects—a significant reason why the bridge between Sicily and Calabria has not been initiated yet.
However, this should not deter you from visiting these regions. The lack of tourism in infrastructure-deficient areas particularly impacts individuals without job prospects, who are already vulnerable due to the presence of the mafia. By visiting, you are fighting the mafia, as when they lose a business to other entities, they also lose the power to grow due to poverty and hopelessness.
The Ionian Coast offers numerous opportunities for experiential tourism, providing the chance for genuine interactions with locals. It also allows visits to small agricultural enterprises to taste their products. We were amazed to discover the variety of fruits and vegetables thriving in the microclimates of Calabria, including tropical fruits like kiwis, mangoes, and papayas, as well as the cholesterol-lowering wonder bergamot. While agricultural businesses suffer from mafia influence just like other enterprises in Southern Italy, new initiatives make it possible to travel without filling the pockets of the mafia.
In Sicily, Addiopizzo is an organization that puts stickers on products from businesses free from protection money, as well as annually publishing a network overview. In Calabria, you can travel with the social cooperative GOEL, utilizing their mafia-free network of service providers. Both organizations are integral to the anti-mafia movement, and conscious travel decisions can support their efforts against mafia corruption.
The shift in the dynamics between civil society and the mafia is evident in the establishment of social cooperatives. However, this change has roots that go back to the streets of Palermo in the 1980s. Following attacks that claimed the lives of anti-mafia lawyers Falcone and Borsellino in 1982, people stopped keeping quiet out of fear. The marches and protests deterred any similar mafia attacks, demonstrating the power of collective movements.
Today, this community-driven logic remains central to anti-mafia movements. Social cooperatives and networks confront the mafia collectively, making it impossible for the mafia to eliminate a single leader and stop the protest. In a community of equals, there is no leader; the power resides within the collective. This network of individuals vigilantly monitors mafia interventions, denouncing them and gradually pushing them back.
This aligns with the shared conviction with V Social: Power comes from community. While one person can move forward, together we can extend our reach and go much farther!
